It was with great excitement that the morning came as it is today that we collect Bertie from Premier Motorhomes following a huge list of things that needed to be sorted. They had had the van a week and we have really missed him. We were also champing at the bit to get going as it feels like half the summer has gone and we want to get back to our routine.
It was with a tinge of sadness that we said goodbye to Gaby and George. Gaby ran us to Premier at 8.30am and we said a tearful goodbye. Bertie on the other hand was standing in one of the parking bays and looking resplendent.
We were delighted with all the work that had been done and so relieved that it had all come together.
It took all morning to ready Bertie for the journey, we had to fill up the gas bottles, put all our stuff away from a week in Burton and go to Tesco to stock up on life's essentials such as pork pie and cornflakes. By 13.30 we were ready to set off to Dover to catch the 21.20 ferry to Calais
The journey was completely uneventful and a pleasure to be back on the road. We arrived at the ferry terminal at 16.30.
As we had arrived so early, we thought we would make enquiries as whether we could move our tickets to an earlier ferry. We were shocked by the response we got as the lady behind the P&O counter said that we could indeed but it would cost us £87. Considering we had already paid £33 plus £37 to move it back a day a further £87 for a couple of hours was mad so we walked away.
We were told the earliest we could return to queue for the ferry was 19.45 so in the mean time we drove up the hill outside the port to the local B&Q car park. Did a bit more sorting out and waited. Whilst there we had two separate visits from interested people looking at Bertie. It was nice to chat to them and made us appreciate how appealing Bertie is.
At 19.15 we arrived back at the port and went to the check in. The very nice chap behind the glass screen took our passports and asked us if we would like to take the earlier ferry as it is loading now? Astounded, we of course said 'yes please' and he kindly gave us a £10 gift voucher to boot to spend in the on board shop.
So we were on the 20.15 ferry after all, the crossing couldn't have been better over in a flash and a purchase of a luggage wheeled trolley under the belt with our voucher. Only downer, was it was lovely and sunny when we left but tipping it down when we arrived.
As the clocks had to go forward an hour to comply with the EU etc we set off from Calais 23.00 straight onto the motorways and towards Belgium.
We arrived in the still torrential rain and pitch dark at our free Aire in Burgues. A rather bumpy car park come playing field. Very glad to be there and tired we went to bed.
One of Gaby's best
We had a lazy start today as we were both tired and relieved to be back in Bertie. It turned out we had parked next to an English van in the night with two sisters and a man who were over for a couple of weeks, also on their way to Belgium. We had a nice chat with them and were joined by another couple who were on their way to watch speed water skiing on one of the canals in Holland. Apparently they get up to speeds of 90 mph.
Today we wanted to go to Ypres. We both felt it would not be right to come to Belgium without paying homage to the fallen. So at 10.30 we were off.
The journey wasn't far and we stopped at a Commonwealth Cemetery en route called East Farm Cemetery. We were the only ones there so decided to have some lunch. By the time we had finished we had been blocked in by 3 coach loads of visitors.
It was not a huge Cemetery by any means but it was a sizeable plot and is famous as John McCrae's forward dressing station, he wrote the poem Flounders Fields there is a plaque to commemorate it.
Also there is the grave stone 5750 Rifleman V.J.Strudwick who was killed in action on 4th January 1916, aged 15. It was surrounded in poppies and notes and toys. He was accepted by his Officers and fellow soldiers as a man and he died as one. Very moving really.
By the time we got back to the coach all the catches had moved on and we made our way to Ypres to try and find a stop over recommended to us by one of the coach drivers. It was only 2.5 km back down the road and we found it with no trouble at all. It was a great spot opposite the city wall and in front of the wide moat.
We spent the rest of the afternoon in the van relaxing and for dinner we tried out the new external BBQ point and it worked a treat. Connected in seconds and Tesco Finest burgers done to a turn.
7pm we walked up to the Menin Gate to have a look at the 50,000 names on the Gate to commemorate those soldiers who were killed during the great War but who were never found. At 8pm they have buglers play the last post and a lone Scot played the bagpipes.
We were surprised by the amount of people there to witness the last post there was a huge amount of young people which has to be a good thing. The salute was taken by a Canadian General, an American Officer and a representative of the Belgium forces. It was very moving indeed to witness this ceremony which is performed every day. The gate is extraordinary and it is challenging to see all the names all over the structure listed in Regiment, Rank and alphabetical order. Kevin had no idea Cunningham was such a popular name.
After the ceremony we walked into the town and looked at the Rally cars. Apparently there is a big Rally on this weekend and they have taken over the town centre.
It rained in the night again which didn't actually bother us much, but at about 01.30 we heard a bang on the outside of the van, it was just tipsy youths being noisy . I think we were so deep in our sleep that we couldn't be bothered to investigate. A sign really of how unbothered we have become of this sort of thing. In the morning when we opened the blinds to find one of the windscreen wipers was standing to attention. The bang was probably the other falling onto the windscreen. Anyway, so what!
After breakfast we walked in to Ypres again this time for a proper look around. Ypres was completely destroyed during the First World War. We saw some photos taken after the war in the cathedral which were amazing. The people were given funds after the war was over to rebuild the city and they chose to lovingly restore it to its former glory. They did a great job and other than the brickwork still looking fresh you really wouldn't know. The cathedral and public buildings are lovely.
As the city was full of racing cars which didn't really rock our boat we decided to take luncheon in Bertie and then move on.
Tyne Cot Cemetery is one of the largest Commonwealth cemeteries with 12000 graves and a wall containing 35000 names of missing soldiers. With the 55,000 names on the Menin Gate it really brings home how many lads were lost and never found.
We arrived at the Cemetery car park to find more coach loads of Brits doing the tour. One had set up a full blown buffet on trestle tables. Quite a sight to see and quite inviting (we weren't invited).
The complex is half surrounded by a high flint wall which you follow to the visitors centre. I suppose you would expect the centre to be a bit on the depressing side but for such a modern building (glass and concrete) it was a bit on the dowdy side. Very dark and slate grey. As one walks towards it, speakers call out the names of the dead one by one. Inside there are displays of personal effects of soldiers found at the cemetery during its construction and letters sent to the decreased next of kin. Moving stories of valour and sacrifice.
The site was in fact the scene of one of the bloodiest battles of the war, There were two German pill boxes still stand on the site that dealt out their deadly deed and put a good number of the dead in their graves. One other small fact is out of the 12,000 graves at the site only 4 of them are German 3 of which are unknown.
Walking away from the visitors centre we followed the wall round to the main gate at the bottom of the shallow sloping hill. What can I say 12,000 graves all lined up in perfect symmetry row after row after row. It takes your breath away and brings a lump to the throat as I write.
The two Pill boxes have four plane trees one at each corner, natures way of keeping them segregated from the fallen, so symbolic, fitting and clever. We walked straight up the middle of the cemetery to the cross. Each cemetery has the same stone cross design with a sword placed over the top of the cross. The sword marks the end of battle, or no more fighting.
At the top of the cemetery is the massive curved wall containing all the names of the missing. Sobering reading I can assure you. Dotted about on the floor were notes written by children to the fallen which made you want to cry, Poppys stuck to names on the walls people walking about in quiet contemplation. It was overwhelming that after nearly 100 years so many people still cared. I think it should be a compulsory part of the school curriculum to visit these places. Surely only then would there be no more wars.
Saturday 29 June 2013
Drizzle, all morning, but it couldn't dampen our spirits as its Petra's birthday today. So it was tea, cards and gifts in bed. We missed Josie but were cheered by the amount of lovely cards Petra received.
After Breakfast we walked in to Bruges along cobbled streets with their lovely houses and buildings down a road that was selling nothing but chocolates and cakes. We stopped at the shop windows to admire the tasty displays. There is something about the way they display chocolates here that make them so inviting. Jewel like, precious and to be treated with respect. You know just like mars bars.....Walking past the shops you could smell the cocoa beans and almost taste the praline. Yum.
Chocolate row led directly to the Markt square. Beautiful tall classical buildings surround the Markt square along with restaurants and cafes. There were horse drawn carriage trips and we even saw a horse drawn wedding in progress. Off the Markt are quite a few streets with shops, as we walked down some of them familiar names appeared like C&A, MEXX, Desigual and Ladbrooks? As it was Saturday there were market stalls in the streets which added to the atmosphere.
After a while we stopped for coffee in a Cafe and used Internet to check emails/Facebook. It was great for Petra to pick up her messages for her birthday. iPads rule.
Birthday Girl....xxx Love you Petra xxx
After Coffee we went to Burg Square to see Heilig Bloed Basiliek church to have a look at a phial of blood containing a few real drops of blood of Christ collected by Joseph when he washed down his body. The solid gold Phial was placed on a table on a stand in front of a very important looking priest. One had to climb onto the erected stage place a donation in the sound amplified box mumble a few words and in exchange the priest gave the donor a bit of paper. We didn't partake, but the church was indeed spectacular and beautifully decorated with painted walls.
Don't forget that's the actual blood of Christ.....
Then walked all around the east side of the city along the canal network very beautiful and little visited by tourists. We almost had it to ourselves. We stood and watched the boat tours go along the canals and under the bridges. Very Venice like we thought.
By now we were getting hungry and found a traditional Brasserie. The sun had come out and we sat outside. We ordered the beef stew which came with chips and a very nice salad followed by custard flan all washed down with a glass of Blonde beer.
Birthday girl gets her treat.
Unfortunately we had to get back to Bertie and arrived back at camp at 3.30pm. We had to leave the site by 4.20 or pay another €22.30 camping fee. Before leaving we filled up with water and set up the Satnav for Holland.
Our first choice of Aire was Terneuzen just over the border into Zeeland. Unfortunately, it was full of wagons and cars as the town had a fair ground attraction on. We then decided not to stay and instead head for Middelburg which is across a stretch of water called the Westershelde. To navigate it we went through a 6.5km tunnel. We both agreed it is the longest tunnel we have ever driven through. We arrived at our stop over for the night at about 5pm.
Tomorrow we stay put and go off to explore on bike.
Sunday is the day of rest and so shall it be for us. A good lie in and late breakfast first priority. It turned out to be a lovely morning with the sun shining, birds singing etc so after a late breakfast we got the Bromptons out and went for a cycle ride.
Middelburg is a gem of a place, beautiful architecture mixed in with canals. The town centres around the Matkt and splendid town hall area. A large open cobbled square surrounded by shops cafes and restaurants.
As it was Sunday all the shops were shut except for a single bread shop. As we were a bit late there weren't any sticks left save a sad looking specimen which the lady kindly offered it to us at a reduced rate. Just as well really as it would have to have been broken anyway to get it into the cycle bag.
The streets of Middelburg circumvent the town square in expanding rings so in theory I you head off in one direction you should come back on yourself. We never quite managed that. We visited another lovely square in the middle of a Abbey. Filled with plane trees it felt like a quiet sanctuary for contemplation and with the dappled light through the trees it was lovely.
We followed our noses around the towns narrow streets and along tree lined canals. The Bromptons really came into their own coasting along. No need for 30 gears here we only used 2 - slow and slower. We eventually stopped at the far end of to town sitting for a while on a bench looking at a canal lock.
Back at Bertie we had our lunch (broken bread, egg and bacon) then with two large mugs of tea we took the chairs to the top of the embankment to the canal that runs along side the Aire. We had a very pleasant hour hoping to see some boats go by. None did!
Late afternoon we decided as there was water available for €1 we would fill up ready for tomorrow and give the van a wash with the remainder. The wet weather of late had taken its toll on poor Bertie and he was in need of a good scrub. By the time we had finished it was G&T and olives time.
Early get up today, ready to go by 09.00. Time to look at some of the coast line in Holland and where better to do it than in the islands leading to Rotterdam. We set off from Middelburg to a small seaside town called Westkapelle. The town is dominated by the sea wall which stands some 30-40m high. Apparently it was destroyed by the allies during the war to to flood the land behind and liberate it. It was rebuilt in 1987 to the hight of the delta. (See below)
Moving to the next island north we cross a huge dam called the delta works. It's a series of 62 sliding gates which close during heavy storms. This area has also suffered terribly with storms. In 1954 there was a big storm which breached the wall and killed 1835 people and destroyed all dykes which were made of sand and were washed away.
It was a very interesting drive which showed us how clever the Dutch are and how determined to keep nature at bay. We travelled over a succession of dams and bridges and wove our way to to outskirts of Rotterdam. From there we joined the A15 motorway driving through the industrial and docklands heart. We followed onto the A16 and came off heading for our Aire for the night at a smashing location in a small town called Ode-Beijerland.
The Aire was on a car park over looking a wide canal and adjacent to a 'Grand Cafe' / Restaurant which had WiFi Couldn't be nicer.
Wow looks amazing, glad mum had a good bday too! :)
ReplyDeleteFantastic pictures, as ever.
ReplyDelete