Monday 22 July 2013
6am up today so it was even a bit early for breakfast for me, even so we were a bit delayed leaving having to do all the necessary jobs to Bertie. Also, we had made a loose plan of where we wanted to go today but when we put the co-ordinates into the TomTom it told us that one road was closed and because of our size the only route available was three sides of a square and would take 5.30 hours to complete. We looked at the map and decided not to go into Austria today and head off in the direction of Salzburg. We do not want to visit it as we have been before. There is only so much Mozart and chocolate balls you can take in one life. How does it go 'The hills are alive.....with the sound of cash registers' did you know that most Austrian's have never seen or heard of the Sound of Music.
We arrived at a local supermarket at about 08.10 and Petra went in to do a bit of food shopping. I followed her in once I had moved Bertie to a better parking place. I walked up to the substantial beer aisle and pitched up two six packs of Pils on special offer, only to find to my horror I was only holding the packaging to one of them. I watched as the six bottles became removed form the cardboard sleeve and tumble to the floor waiting for the enviable smash. It came big time, my feet and sandals were drenched with beer and broken glass. I stood there amazed and not quite knowing what to do. A rather stern looking lady came from around the corner rolled her eyes and walked off, presumably to get the cleaner mop and bucket. I gently placed the cardboard container on the stack of beer I had collected it from and picked up another two packs this time holding on to them for dear life. Once in Petra's trolley I made a hasty retreat to Bertie.
Petra returned to the van and produced breakfast. It was a large square croissant type thing, stuffed with what seemed to be semolina and dusted with icing sugar. It sounds worse than it tasted but it was very filling.
We had a rather uneventful drive to Salzburg along the Autobahn. On the way we were delighted to receive a call from Gaby and that the weather in Aldwick is hot enough for her to go for a swim three times a day. Good for you girl....
We also stopped at a cycle shop to purchase a cycle pump. We did bring one of those 12v ones from Halfords but the first time we tried it on the Bertie's big tires it blow up. It was a shame as it did do the Brompton 6.5 bar tyres a treat. Anyway, we went into this enormous out of town shed thing and we got one of those ones like a stirrup pump. Just the job and made in Germany as only they can.
We finally ended up at our free site at about lunch time. Then blew up the tyres on the twins and we headed off into the local town. There are no photos as there were none worth taking. We carried on through the town to the MacDonald's and sat for an hour using the Internet, well up dating the blog actually. There was no time for anything else and we are only allowed one hour.
After we returned to Bertie and relaxed doing a few jobs.
Tuesday 23 July 2013
We can't seem to get out of the habit of early rising, perhaps it's all in the excitement of the days to come. We were actually on the road by 07.30 today. A quick stop at a fuel station to fill up with Diesel (€1.39 per ltr) and get our10 day Vignette that allows us to drive on the motorways in Austria. They are only €8.30 and save a hefty fine if caught without one. apparently they are quite hot on it and they can spot offenders a mile off. All ready to go we popped on the motorway and without any notices we were in Austria driving along the A1 motorway and on to 158 which is a scenic route through mountains passes, up some steep climbs past beautiful blue lakes and small villages.
One of the highlights of the drive was the view from the top of a climb turning a bend to find Lake Wolfgangsee straight ahead and below. It really was a breath stopper. We have found that views like that are often inaccessible as there are no stopping or parking areas to be found. Besides with traffic (mainly lorries) its not that safe to stop and get out. Either that or there is no warning whatsoever that you are about to witness one of the most beautiful vistas you have ever seen in your LIFE and before you know it you have left the pull over spot 100m behind you. So no pics just very fond memories of an extraordinary drive.
So, we carried on our way admiring the scenery and the beautiful houses and farms through green tree lined valleys and small alpine villages till we reached the outskirts of our destination for the day. Liezen, has no claim to fame that we are aware of and it is not mentioned in any of the books we have. It does however have a free camping spot so that's good enough for us.
As we approached the town we found the local Aldi store and went In to buy some supplies. It was now 09.15 and time for breakfast. Dark bread, smoked ham, cheese and a beef tomato and Yorkshire tea. Walking round a local must have heard us speaking English and told us we had a new King? At first we were wondering what on earth he was on about. 'Has the Queen died'? No of course not it was just that Kate had had the baby boy. Before you could say 'does one come here often' he'd whipped out his mouth organ and played the national anthem. It was a little embarrassing but it was meant in good fun. Petra saluted.
Not much to say about Liezen and one can understand why it is left out of the travel books. It's a working town full of local businesses and is a bit of a building site at the moment with major works going on. We were a bit doubtful that the site would be up to much but we were delighted with it. It was situated down a quiet road behind a rock climbing and tennis club over looking open fields to the hills, valley and mountains beyond. We settled Bertie in and took the Brompton's for a spin. It didn't take long and we were soon back having our lunch.
What a hot day it has been today at 15.00 I took a reading with my Kestrel wind gauge thermometer which is very accurate indeed. In the shade under the awning it was exactly 36.4*c. Inside Bertie it was only 2* more which I think is quite amazing. What the temp was in the sun I do not know but it was too hot to go for an afternoon bike ride.
One of our recent purchases is a 20L solar shower which we thought would be good when we are on campsites instead of having to pay for showers. As it happens as a shower it is not that good but as a water heater it is amazing. We fill it up and put it on the roof of the van. All you have to do is make sure you put the black side up and in two to three hours you have water so hot you have to add cold to it to use. We now wash clothes, wash dishes and decant it into a 2l jug for bathing and all for free. Well, the bag cost €7 but you know what I mean. Also, it keeps hot for ages.
Wednesday 24 July 2013
What a day we have had today, it has been so action packed I hardly know where to begin. We really wanted to see some of the mountains of Austria and today was the day. We left our comfortable camp site in Liezen at 07.30, and headed out of the town on the E651. After about three quarters of an hour the TomTom announced that there was a closed road (probably the same one that blocked our previous attempt to cross the Alps) on our route and it wanted to know if we would we like it to re calculate an alternative. Suddenly the journey shot up from a couple of hours to four and a half. To add to this there was a local hold up and we were directed off on a side road which took us way up into the mountains to the ski resorts Filzmoos an absolute gem of a place. We stopped and walked around and took some lovely pictures.
As we couldn't get to our preferred destination Mittersill we thought we would carry on along the same road but turn off for a look at Zell am See. It's a fairly large town on the banks of the Zeller See lake. Not a huge lake by any means and it was very difficult to see it properly as there is a railway track between the town and the lake. In the end we didn't stop, not because we didn't want to, but because they do not provide parking for camper vans. We turned the van around and went back in the same direction from whence we came. Shame really.
Sooooo, next we headed off on a route that we were planning to do tomorrow. It's a mountain pass and climb that we first did 14 years ago when we went to Austria with our friends John and Amanda. It starts not far from Zell am See and it's road number is the 107. As we approached the start of the climb we were surprised to find there was a toll to pay. €33 in fact. We toyed whether to go or not but in the end thought despite seeing it before its so beautiful we really should go. So along with countless cars, lorries, motor bikes and loads of cyclists we started the 2428m climb to the Fuscher Torl which has a memorial and an observation platform with the most amazing views of Grosglockner the tallest mountain in Austria. It was a lovely day blue skies but with clouds coming and going around the summit of the mountains.
By the time we arrived poor Bertie was a bit hot under the collar and straining at the extra weight he is carrying. The road up was an incredible drive and at times quite a challenge. We stayed at our stop for an hour having our lunch and let the poor lad get his breath back and cool off all those hot break pads and the clutch. The views really were spectacular and changing all the time with the sun going behind clouds casting shadows on the mountain sides. It realy was like you were on the top of the world looking down and seeing for ever. We had a stroll town the road to the memorial and took a few photographs for the cyclists who had battled their way up. I must say it was impressive how fit they still looked. Personally, I would be on my last legs and calling for a taxi.
After lunch we continued with the climb up to the highest point of 2504m at Hochtor (head of the Pass) where we went through a tunnel that marked the started our decent. Poor Bertie strained at the leash as we dropped and weaved our way down. I was unable to hold the van on a low gear and he just kept accelerating. I had no choice but to use the braks a lot more than I would have liked too, half way down we pulled over to give the braks a rest. The wheels were roasting hot, far too hot to touch so we put the coffee pot on and let the poor lad cool off. As it happens we couldn't have picked a nicer spot and really enjoyed our look at the spectacular views down a stunning valley.
After our break we set off again and within half an hour we at the bottom quite relieved I can tell you. One thing that is clear, Bertie needs to shed a few Kg's. By now it was getting on for 4pm and we tired and needed to find a camp site for the night. Unfortunately, nothing free here for us as we are in such a touristy area, we stopped at a place called Lienz which is on the opposite side of the mountain range from where we started this morning. It was a very pleasant site with showers, toilets, a bar and Internet (at a price - €1 gets you 30mins) mind you it should be for €31.50 for one night. I (jokingly) ribbed the owner about the cost of the Internet, so I think out of sympathy he gave me a complementary half hour. I think my comment about the Rolex watch on his wrist and Alfa Spider in the garage was the clincher.
Thursday 25 July 2013
The wonderful thing about traveling, as I have said before, it is so easy to be spontaneous and today was one such occasion. During the night we discussed all the things we could jettison if needed to lighten the load. Yesterday's experience highlighted to us the perils of driving Bertie in the mountains overloaded. We think we are probably 100kg overweight.
The first thing we decided was not to carry so much water. Bertie has a carrying capacity of 120 litres of clean water so that's 120kg in weight. We also carry bottles of fresh water about 12 litres and a jerry can just in case 5 litres. It has always been my policy to fill the tanks to the brim just in case we have a run of campsites where there are no facilities but needs must so we are going to halve what we take that will save 68kg minimum. We always drain the grey tank before we move out so no savings there.
Next on the list was the tool box. I pack a large tool box! That is to say I have a lot of tools. Far too many for the off chance that I will need them. I had already sorted out a set that should do for most eventualities so the rest including the box can go. I recon a saving of 55kg at least.
Next clothes, me again.....I brought too many clothes and some of them are very old including jeans and T's. Some went straight in the bin others went for saving and posting back to the UK. Petra looked through her entire wardrobe and found a lightweight dress and a pair of shoes! We scoured the cupboards and found all sorts of things like a spare gas bottle, and my fishing gear minus the rods which have disappeared, and my water colour painting stuff. I haven't used it over one year so it has to go.
In the morning we were looking into sending all this stuff by post to Caroline in Burton on Trent and pondering the cost to post it. We agreed it would be expensive. Petra came up with the idea of driving back to Antwerp and asking Greta and Luc to hold on to it till we return in March. It seemed mad but there were advantages, firstly we would see Greta and Luc again, second, it would be a great drive and third we could re plan our trip to include a bit more of France.
A quick text to Greta and in no time she came back with a plan. 3000km is a long way drive there and back and there is of course the question of the cost in fuel plus we are coming to the end of the month so need to watch the pennys. As it happened Greta and Luc's daughter's best friend lives in Austria (how about that?) we could drive to her house, off load anything wanted and they would kindly transport it to Brussels next time they visit there in September. Unbelievable, yet again Greta and Luc come to the rescue.
Veerle and her partner live in Bichlbach, Tirol. It is exactly 247km to the west from Lienz. We decided in an instant this was the best thing to do. A quick Skype with Greta and Luc firmed up the arrangements and within the hour we had dumped most of our water, paid for the site and we were off.
Firstly, we went to a big DIY shop and bought a couple of plastic creates for our stuff to store at Veerle's house. We also did some food shopping at Lidl and filled up with fuel €139.9 per Litre. We put the address in the TomTom which to my amazement it found no problem and we were off. It was now 10.30.
It would be impossible to describe to you all the 247 km of our journey but I will give the route for those interested. From Lienz we went on the 100 then into Italy onto the E66, popped onto the A22-E45-A13 to Innsbruck. Hang a left on the A12 come off the motorway at Telfs onto the 189 and follow the windy steep road to Bichlbach. Couldn't be easier.
The journey was incredibly, we never, not even once, left mountain valleys all the way. We went past lakes, small villages with beautiful houses and churches with incredibly thin spires. So picturesque. At one time there was so much to see you just couldn't make up your mind which to turn. Particularly difficult when you are supposed to be looking at the road. It was such a pleasure to drive.
One point I must raise though, is it can be a bit hairy at times the Italian roads are not good and for such a main route to Innsbruck they are quite narrow in places. Lorries thunder past you at quite a speed and you have to wary of the mad Italian who speeds by in his Alfa and just manages to cut up in front of you before an artic lorry blasts his horn. Another shock in Italy was the price of fuel,€1.70 per litre. Wow that's quite a hit that would have added €18 onto the fuel bill from this morning. I think that's a lot for the same stuff from the same fuel company. Tuh! governments huh, what can you do!
We arrived at Bichlbach at 16.30 and met our kind hosts for the night. We off loaded our excess load to their safe keeping and we parked Bertie up un their garden. They are such nice people and they live in a very beautiful part of the world. From their garden we could see the tallest mountain in Germany the Zugspitze. Apparently there is a fantastic cable car trip you can take to the top, but at €33 its a bit steep (excuse the pun) for us. Besides Petra doesn't like the rattle of the car over the towers.
Friday 26 July 2013
We had a bit of a dilemma in deciding what to do today, we have found ourselves on totally the opposite side of Austria to that which we had intended. Normally this wouldn't faze us a jot as we would simply look at the map metaphorically stick a pin in it and go there. But, on the west side of Austria it ain't that simple. And besides, we really do want to go to Slavonia and Croatia and we have a month to go before we are due in Venice to collect Jo and Paul from the Airport.
Yesterday we had that great drive through Italy and we could head back on exactly the same route but in reverse. Great but it was very windy, hilly, and busy. Besides we would rather see pastures new if possible. Another alternative was to carry on in the same direction (west) to have a look at Lichtenstein but that would put us a further 250km away from where we want to be and in the wrong direction. We considered dropping down into Italy and doing a bit of touring there but that meant more mountains lakes and pretty villages. And as much as we have loved them it is time for a change of scenery. So what to do.....?
In the end we looked at the map and decided where we would ideally have like to have been disregarding the diversion to Bichlach. Also, as today is Friday and it is our policy to rest up at the weekends if possible, we needed a site free if possible, for three days. We then looked at the available sites in Camperstop. It turned out our destination for the weekend was to be a small town still in Austria but on the Slovenian border called Ferlach, south of Klangerfurt. We then asked the TomTom for the route it recommended. and it came up with a surprising solution in a blink of an eye.
What a clever little device it is. It decided to send us on a trip north a tad and in to Germany it then popped us onto the motorway heading towards Munich, we turned off at Bad Tolz (been there!) and joined another motorway the A8 to Salzburg, now heading South we joined the A10 to Villach. What a drive that was, we motored our way literally through mountain tunnels, too many to count some not even on the map, various lengths some 100's of metres others 6, 8 or even 10km in length. It was an extraordinary drive and one that needed quite a lot of concentration as some of the tunnels can be quite narrow and Bertie after all is quite wide.
From Villach a quick shoot down the Klangenfurt on the E66 hang a left on the E652 and the TomTom had done its work. 437km and 6 hours at the wheel. We are at a very pleasant site on a river side location with all we need. So very happy that we have made the right decisions.
So, had it all been worth it? We had noticed a significant difference in the handling of Bertie, more responsive and it did feel lighter to drive. We also had a significant increase in fuel economy recording our second highest KPL since we have had started. We have also re-evaluated what is essential and let go of quite a few things. We even had to let our pet dog 'Stripes' go, but it was all in a good cause. The garage is certainly more manageable and we also feel happy knowing we are below our legal limit.
Petra and Kevin would once again like to thank firstly Greta and Luc for arranging for our excess weight to be taken by Veerle and her partner. Apparently her father is taking the stuff to Antwerp as soon as next week so it will be waiting for us when we return to see Greta and Luc in March. And of course many many thanks to Veerle for stepping in to help us out and for allowing us to put Bertie in the garden for the night. Finally, a big thanks to Veerle's Dad for transporting it all that way for us. We are both knocked out by the kindness we have been shown and we are eternally grateful. x
Saturday 27, Sunday 28 and Monday 29 July 2013
We were determined to stay put for a few days at Felach. We were both tired from all the driving we had done this week. So for two whole days we didn't move from Bertie's side. We did our routine van cleaning, clothes washing, a bit of maintenance and took advantage of the plentiful supply of clear clean river water on our door step to clean the carpets which came up brilliantly. To think we nearly bought a new set in Isny!
It has been really hot. 35 to 40*c. The long campsite points due north down a tree lined tarmac road. The camper vans park either side of the road. In the morning the shady side is in the left and in the afternoon it is on the right. So unless you want to be fried you have to move the van from one side to the other when appropriate seeking the shade. The awning has come into its own this weekend and we would have been really miserable without it. When we get too hot we saunter down to the river and sit on a big rock with our feet in the mountain fresh fantastically cold water and splash it all over 'Harry'.
The solar shower has been very useful indeed we now have a constant supply of hot water for all our needs. We washed our clothes and shower in the river water you pay a lot of money for mountain fresh at Tesco!
So, we have enjoyed our two days in and until the weather cools down or we fancy a change we are going to stay here. The weather in Slavonia and Croatia are hotter than here and we are a little worried about constant 40*c it is very draining. Mind you the tans are coming on a treat.
Tuesday 30 July 2013
My goodness it rained last night, it started as a shower that didn't even wet the road it was so hot. But then, the heavens opened on an off all night. As a consequence we both had a disturbed night. It was that sort of rain that not only comes down hard but also in huge globules. The sound of the rain on the top of the van was was enough to wake the dead.
When we woke up you would hardly know, the sun was out and the mountains surrounding us were covered in wispy clouds. It looked really beautiful. After a cup of tea we made ourselves ready and filled up the van with water etc and headed off. We have had a really nice time at Felech but we are ready to move on. Firstly, we pulled in at the local petrol station and used the free air to fill the tyres. No messing about with miles of hose and coin machines here, no each pump has a portable tyre pump that you take to the tyres, when it runs out of puff you simply replace it on the stand and it charges it back up again. Brilliant.
We then set off with the general heading of east, but first we wanted to look at a lake we had been told about Worther See. It is the warmest lake in Austria. To take advantage of the views we first headed west so we could view the full length of the lake on its northern side. On the way we passed large fields of sunflowers in full bloom and eventually stopped for breakfast on the shaw of the lake looking across at the Maria Worth a 12th Century that sits on a promontory which extends far into the lake.
We were amazed how busy the road was, not only with traffic but with cyclist and rollerbladers who can really skate fast. They really take fitness seriously in Austria, we have seen any number of people pop their €7000 bikes of the back of their vans and disappear all morning doing a 50km mountain climb. It make one feel very unfit I can tell you.
We carried on around the lake and through Klagenfurt but again found it difficult to find a place to park Bertie that made the city centre in easy reach. As it happened I think we both were keen to get out of the city, we have become used to the country side and that's where we feel most comfortable. Moving on, we came to a town called Volkermarkt which is near to the border of Slovenia which sits on the banks of a reservoir. We had a look around the small 13 century which had a charming spire and Romanesque portal (door) with 14 Century frescoes either side. We also weighted our selves in the local chemist.
From their we made our way for the overnight stay at Bleiburg ready for crossing the border tomorrow. Not a lot to say about Bleiburg, it is a free campsite with no facilities, otherwise known as a car park. We were the only ones there sitting amidst the cars, It felt a bit odd but we were perfectly happy to stay the night. We had the afternoon looking around the shops and enjoying a large ice cream which gave me an ice cream headache. Nice.
Tuesday 31 July 2013
We decided to get up really early today so we could spend the whole day in Bled. We actually were on the road by 06.30. The drive was lovely with the sun rising on the mountains. It gave them a relief you wouldn't normally see during the day and was well worth getting up for. We drove back along some of the route we did yesterday through many long tunnels and indeed one 8km long.
We eventually arrived at a rest point on the Slovenian border and bought our vignette for the motorways this time it was €15 more expensive than Austria so we are expecting great things from the motorway network here. It was a nice but rather short drive, only 130km but we arrived in Bled as planned nice and early and would you believe it, got the last camping slot for Bertie. This site is not cheap and we expect to pay €30 for one night.
It was also a bit of a shock to the system, last night we were n our own in a car park and in total solitude. Today we are really in with the crowd and it tells. At first we were a little disorientated and all these people about really disturbed me. I have to say I really hated it, it was like being a Butlin's on a bank holiday weekend. Not what we are used to at all.
We settled Bertie in pitch No1 our allocated slot and took a walk around the site. It had the lot, Tents, caravans, campers, glampers and back packers sleeping under carrier bags. It was impossible to to put a van tent or other anywhere it was so crowded. On reflection we were lucky we made the decision to come as early as we did. The site was too big to walk around so we gave it up and made our way back to Bertie.
One thing, we have actually met the first Brits we have seen on this site for over a month. It was rather strange talking to them normally instead of some sort of disjointed Anglo/French/Spanish/German/Dutch and Belgique accent that we bumble by on.
Anyway, nothing for it in a time of crisis but to break out the Brompton Twins and find out what all the fuss is about with this 'Lake Bled'. It didn't take long and would have been considerably quicker if we could get past all the vehicles trying to get in and out of the front entrance. We now know where the toilets are.
The ride around the lake was fantastic and I have to admit well worth the cost and overcrowding. The lake is a beautiful blue and has a church on an island which at the front has a very long set of steps to get to the door. I tell you, you have really got to be devoted to go to this church, not only have you got to row yourself over to the island but you then have to climb a small mountain to get to it. Oh well each to their own, we if we chose, could have opted for the man standing on the back of his boat puntin' us across but we watched instead.
The town of Bled is not that big it is just filled with hotels, bars, restaurants, and casino's. we did not dwell long but long enough to get ourselves a couple of beech towels. Multi-coloured and bright, just like us at the moment......
We cycled all the way round the lake and had our lunch on a bench over looking the water and the church and the castle on the rock. Forgot to mention that... There is one and its very beautiful especially against the bounty in backdrop. Back at the camp, we fought our way back to Bertie and put the bikes away. Then we changed in to swimming gear and took the Beach towels out for their first outing.
Just outside the site entrance is a green on the shaw of the lake and we found ourselves a nice spot in the sun and slowly basted ourselves all afternoon interspersed with a few dips in the warm waters of the lake. It should not be surprising that places like this at this time of the year would be crowded and we must expect it. I have a feeling it could get a lot worse and Venice could be a tad busy in August. Best brace yourselves for that Jo and Paul.