Lanhydrock and Bedruthan Steps

Thursday 13 September

Today we decided we would head off towards Newquay along the coast road. The road is a bit narrow but, we are by now used to driving on Cornish country roads so they hold no fear. Unfortunately, to start with, the hedges were too high so we only saw the views on odd occasions when the hedges gave way. 

We really wanted to see the view from the cliffs at Carnewas which were supposed to be spectacular. (National Trust of course). It is also known as the Bedruthan Steps, it is said that giants once walked on the rocks. No idea why they couldn't use the path like we have to?  We arrived at the car park and made our way along the well signposted track past the shop and tea rooms, to the view point. The view simply took our breath away and is in our opinion is the most stunning view of the Cornish coast we have seen. We spent some time watching the long breaking waves rolling their way to the big sandy bay you could see tiny people walking on the sand which gave you a sense of the scale of what we were seeing. We walked for a while in both directions from the view point taking photo’s and enjoying the special moment. The weather was perfect sunny with a slight breeze.

After a cup of tea at the NT picnic table (chained to the ground for security) we set off again on our quest to have a look at Newquay. The journey took us along up and down valley’s into coves where the surfers and their shops take over. We stopped at one surf shop and bought a Rip Curl changing mat for Campy. We have been looking for something to use as a carpet outside when we have to put the Bus Shelter up and also to use at the back of the van to put stuff out of the boot on when the ground is wet. £10 got us a blue oblong piece of Neoprene 4’ by 3’- so ideal for our needs.

By now we were just outside Newquay and started to make our way through the town. We didn’t stop. We did have a good look at the town centre as we drove through and can see why students use it as a mecca after exams have finished but, to be frank it didn’t do anything for us that would make us stop and besides. We came out of Newquay the same way we went in. With all the other fantastic places in Cornwall to visit, I doubt we will be returning their again soon.

A quick trip into Wadebridge on the way home found Petra’s glasses repaired (lost screw) and a trip to Tesco for Cornish Butter which has become an essential staple part of our diet. What the heck we are going to do when we leave Cornwall isn’t worth thinking about. 

Wednesday 12 September

If there is one National Trust house we were looking forward to visiting the most it is Lanhydrock. It is situated about 16 miles from the campsite, not far from Bodmin. Very mixed weather today with showers interspersed with rain. It really blew in the night and the noise on the roof of the van was enough to wake us up (not for long though).

We set off at 9.30 and arrived at 10.00 the kind volunteer car park attendant showed us to our place. We parked up and as we were so early we decided we would go for a walk in the garden till the doors to the house open at 11.00. We hadn’t walked 10 steps from Campy when the heavens opened. We made a sharp about turn straight back to the dry comfort of the van for a nice cup of tea. By the time the rain subsided and we had drank our tea the sun came out and we set off to the house.

The walk from the car park to the house is 600 yards and mostly down a gentle slope. Lanhydrock was devastated in a fire in 1881 and was rebuilt in the Victorian style, it is classified as one of National Trust’s premier houses and it’s easy to see why. The visit starts with going through the impressive gate house which has rooms above the entrance. We did go up to the rooms on the way out and they are interesting. Great views of the house and the gardens.

As you walk up the short drive (100yds) to the house you get a taste of the sculptured gardens which are beautifully kept and in keeping with the impressive facade of the house. The lawns were superb with perfect stripes even on the sloping bits. 

Inside the house you are treated to 50, yes 50, rooms to look around and they are all individual time capsules of Victorian opulence. The most interesting thing for us was the size of the kitchens. Apart from the amazing huge main kitchen which boasted a spit large enough to take a whole cow, it had separate rooms for dairy, bread bakery, pastry, cheese, meat, fish, and more. It seemed never ending. 

Once through the kitchens your path takes you upstairs to the bedroom of the last heir to the estate, Capt. Tommy Robartes. He was killed in the Great War whilst trying to save an NCO who was injured in no mans land. He was recommended for a Victoria Cross for his bravery but it was rejected due the man being below him in rank. Apparently, to have been successful the man would have had to be a fellow Captain or above in rank. I cant believe the stupid rules they had in those days. Anyway in his bedroom were all his possessions including a huge port-mantle full of every need a gentleman would require to keep himself clean and tidy; Kev would have loved to have got his hands on that lot. 

You then carry on through the Lord and Lady’s apartments. Lord Robartes we thought had the rough end of the deal with only one bedroom and a flat tray in front of the fire to stand on for a bath. Her Ladyship however had a whole suite of rooms including a mahogany rimmed free standing bath in her boudoir and the most enormous bed you've ever seen.

Back downstairs there is a billiard room, offices, the saloon and the long room all of which are fascinating. You could really spend a whole day in this house. We thought it is one of the best houses architecturally we have ever seen. It was designed for efficiency, comfort and entertaining and must have performed brilliantly in all that was asked of it. Although the house is huge it doesn’t have that feeling inside, the only criticism we thought that could be said of it is it is a bit dark inside.

Back outside again we went back to Campy for lunch than back to the gardens which are lovely. To the top is the Church and small graveyard then a choice of paths takes you all over the hillside gardens to the woodlands to the back of the house. The formal gardens are a delight. Mainly because of their simplicity in design and use of colour. There are the usual National Trust tea rooms and shops in the old out buildings for the needy we didn’t take advantage but by 3pm we were on our last legs and called it a brilliant day.

Lanhydrock is a must see, not only for the fabulous design of the house and gardens but for the history of the family which is fascinating. If you are in the area and want a good day  don’t pass it up, pay it a call you will not be disappointed.