Weekend in Antwerp with Luc and Greta.

Friday 5 July 2013

Setting off day is always busy, we were up and at it 06.00 showered with the washing machine in use doing the bedding. By 10.00 the grey tanks were drained, fresh water tank filled to capacity, washing done, everything that could be charged, charged and disconnected from the electric. We were off on the 169km journey back to Belgium to see our friends Greta and Luc in Antwerpen.

As soon as we left the campsite we had to wait for a bridge to raise an incredible thing to witness and yet another engineering wonder especially as the road was 8 lanes wide.

The journey was straightforward enough motorway all the way and we stopped once for a cup of tea at 11.30. By 12.30 we were in the traffic on the ring road around Antwerpen a short delay whilst we took our turn to edge forward. 13.00 we arrived at the camp site on the south side of the city. A sprawling affair with little to offer other than a service area and copious amounts of space.

After a quick bite to eat and settling in Greta and Luc came to meet us at the campsite. It was great to see them both again. We jumped into their car and we were off on an amazing afternoon they had planned for us.

We drove through the city to the old quarter, Both Greta and Luc pointing out the highlights of the city. We eventually found our way to an underground car park which had a lighting system above each bay, red full, green empty space. Therefore in no time at all that we found a space for the car. 

We came up out of the car park into the heart of the city the 'Grote Mart', it is large square surrounded on all sides with large and impressive buildings. On one side is a run of tall Guildhouses once belonging to wealthy merchants, each out-doing each other in the design and grandeur of property. Each one had a ornate gilt statue on the the top of the gable. Really stunning architecture which we could have looked at all day.

In the middle of the square is the famous Antwerp bronze statue of a man throwing a hand. He is Roman soldier throwing the hand of the mythical giant 'Gruon Antigone' into the river Scheldt. It is said that the giant would cut off the hands of sailors who would not pay the toll to pass down the river. He would wade into the river to drag the boats in and demand payment. He obviously was a menace so he to go. Hence the Roman killed him, cut off his hand and threw it into the river. A strange point to note about the statue itself is the stance of the soldier is off balance and it would be impossible to throw anything also the hand he is throwing doesn't look like a giants.

After the walk around the square Greta and Luc hired a horse and trap ride for us all and we meandered our way around the narrow back streets of the City. Our driver was quite a character sporting a fine beard, bowler hat and brown waistcoat. After a conversation where it was determined that Greta had lived in the city all her life, he stated that was a shame as he couldn't tell any lies on the tour.

Greta and Luc

Our driver

The ride lasted about half an hour - long enough to be shown some very interesting sites that we would later visit in person. At one stage we stopped in a narrow cobbled street opposite one the more prestigious restaurants in the city, the place was being photographed and of course the photographer wanted us to be the perfect accompaniment to the scene. I think he was more interested in the horse than us but we patiently waited for him to do his thing. The journey of course ended up where we started and we continued on our way.

We were then taken to a very old building - the oldest stock exchange in the world. A fantastically old quadrangle reminiscent of church cloisters on three sides and Ivy growing above. The floor had a lovely cobble stone floor arranged in expanding circles from the centre. On the outside was a huge stone gated entrance with large wooden doors, it was (I thought) modest in comparison to the impressive treats inside.

Next on the tour Greta and Luc had planned for us was a trip to Saint-Paul's Church. (St-Pauluskerk) This was a real surprise and treat. It was completed in the early 17th century and displays a mixture of Gothic and Baroque features. The exterior dates from the 1517 and has an added Baroque gateway. The most striking thing was the interior of the church which is very distinctive with white walls and black, white and gold features such as the altar and side chapels. At the back of the building is a huge piped organ and around the walls paintings by Rubens, Van Dyck and Jordaens. 

I could go on for many more paragraphs and describe the 'fifteen mysteries of the rosary', a beautiful prayer room containing exquisite wooden carvings of Christ's walk to the crucifixion, how the local prostitutes who solicited in that street rescued all the paintings in a fire in the 60's and of course the amazing statues garden but that would take for ever. It's a great place to visit and we both really enjoyed our time there. 

Next was Het Steen or Antwerp's castle. Was built on the banks of the River Scheldt to protect the town and control shipping. We didn't actually go around the castle but it is an impressive building from the outside. More importantly, it is said that the castle was once the home of the home of the aforementioned evil giant called Druon Antigoon, who would exact a heavy toll on the shipping and cut off the hands of captains who refused to pay him. Silvius Brado did the honours of finishing him off and in turn cut off the giant's hand throwing it into the river. This handwerpen or hand throwing is how Antwerpen got its name. Finally, there is a bronze statue outside the castle (see pic)

'What d'ya think of these then me little cherubs?'

Next on the agenda was a short walk under the city to the De Antwerpse Ruien. Basically under the city is a labyrinth of tunnels filled with water that run all under the city. They do boat trip tours, we were allowed to walk down to the tunnels but the tours are booked weeks in advance. The first thing to note was the smell, pheeeew it was ripe. To be honest it reminded us of a Victorian sewer and it smelt like it too. Apparently, the tunnels were once roads but eventually the city built over them. They are protected and cannot be touched. Heavy trucks are banned from driving over them (or was that Drucks Greta?)

Coming back into the fresh air was welcome and Greta led us to our next port of call, as she has lived here all her life she knows the streets like the back of her hand. We were steered down a succession of beautiful narrow passages leading to small shops and posh restaurants and back onto the main shopping streets.

By now were all a bit tired and a drink was called for. We found a very busy bar and sat down for a well deserved beer or two! As Kev is a complete novice to beer of the Belgium variety and the selection is huge, we were in the safe hands of Luc. Petra had a Westmalle lite beer and Luc and Kev had the same but a darker stronger type very delicious and quite strong 7.5%.

Once we were refreshed with our beer, it was time for dinner. We were whisked off in the car to the north of the city near the meat abattoirs and industrial area. We parked up and walked into a small restaurant which Greta described as a 'Man's Restaurant' on account of the size of steaks served. Also, it is famous for having TV celebrities eat there. Sure enough there was a well known singer who chatted with Luc & Greta as she was leaving. 

After aperitifs  of Porto and Cava, The steaks arrived. Kevin's peppered steak was massive, the size of a large Cornish Pasty and it beat him good and proper. Petra had a regular steak with a mushroom sauce. No pudding was required. The dog ate well that night.

Greta and Luc had not finished with us yet, after that magnificent dinner we went back to their home, an amazing place, Greta has lived in the house all her life. It's been completely rebuilt and is now a beautiful modern block of five apartments. They live in the ground floor apartment, very modern and tastefully decorated. They share it with a Rottweiler, a German Schnauzer, 2 cats and an African grey. Their daughters each have apartments upstairs. After another beer we all got into our swimming gear and went in the Jacuzzi, wow what fun that was. 
At about midnight it was time to go back to Bertie. What a day.......we went to bed in a fuzzy world of fullness tinged with alcohol but an overwhelming gratitude to Greta and Luc for their unbelievable generosity and kindness towards us. We had a great sleep.

Saturday 6 July 2013

Luc and Greta picked us up from the campsite at 09.30, they had promised to take us to a small restaurant called 'Zum' for breakfast. We set off driving back to the north of the city. On the way we went under a motorway where the concrete supporting the motorway above had been painted with graffiti. Some of the work was very clever and interesting. Luc stopped the car to enable photos to be taken. There is a university course on graffiti and the local art students come down and practice their skills.

Not far from the motorway and past an area Greta described as 'the lung' of the city a slice of green parkland and recreational area has been created. Industrial buildings converted into loft living have transformed the area from the cheapest in the city to some of the most expensive. Greta and Luc have this city life sussed and know all the best places to go. Zum is situated on the corner of two roads - a small old building externally but modern within. It has quite a reputation and if you want to get in you need to book. It has a nice atmosphere, tastefully decorated and the staff were very friendly and attentive. It felt good to be there especially when the breakfast feast arrived.

First, baskets of artisan breads arrived along with jams, butter and freshly squeezed orange juice. Next a platter of breakfast cheese, ham, chorizo with two small bowls one containing goats cheese and the other a delicious ham, mayo and onion dish. To follow there was a glass of yogurt with honey on the bottom, and muesli on the top. Finally, we were asked if we would would like our eggs, scrambled  or easy over (fried). By the time we had finished we were all full of food and ready for another day in Antwerpen.

First stop was the 'MAS' an impressive new museum building situated in the docks area. It's impossible to miss the building as it is so distinctive. The structure stands tall and square with what looks like four floors but in truth has ten. Corrugated glass holds the building together and turns what could just be a big red box into a work of art. On the outside of the building are thousands of terracotta red tiles covering the building and on each is placed a silver hand. Apparently you could become a sponsor of the museum and have your own square and hand.We rode up the escalators inside the MASS one by one past interesting displays of pictures of Belgium's finest athletes arriving at the the top of the building to the panorama deck. We were rewarded with fantastic views of the city.

Antwerp's main railway station is a monumentally grand building designed in a Neo-Classical style (so says DK and who would argue) built between 1898 and 1905 with grand staircases, columns, marble and gold decorative flourishes. It really does speak of a bygone age of luxury and showmanship. Looking over the rail below you can see three levels of train platforms. A truly amazing building.

Not far from the station is the diamond quarter. Due to it being Saturday and therefore the Jewish Sabbath, all the diamond shops were closed but, we did have a walk around the surprisingly unglamorous area. A few shops were open giving a tantalising taster of what's contained behind the shuttered fronts.  

Back in the shopping centre we went past some fantastic cake shops too expensive to look at as was the beautiful Lamborghini parked nearby receiving much attention. Next visit was to what was once the city's ballrooms, the 'Stadsefeestzaal. A grand entrance welcomed the visitor to what is now a very fancy shopping centre, it was converted following a serious fire in recent times. The ballroom is still intact and retains much of its spender with gilt work a-plenty. The ground floor of the ballroom is now a coffee bar and restaurant and our stopping place for more beer. It was here that Luc instructed Kevin on the finer points of Belgium beer and how to pour it correctly. 

Every Saturday the city has a foreign food market, they sell exotic spices and all manner of interesting fruit and vegetables, fish and meat. Apparently, it is the the season for young sardines. Greta stood in the queue (ticket in hand) till her number came up and bought some of the raw fish on the platter. It was cleaned and cut into strips for us to eat. Now, coming from the Midlands, we are not  used eating to fish and certainly not raw. We have had sardines for breakfast but raw hummmm. We both tried a small piece each and although it was not unpleasant, it was a bit alien to us though and I think an acquired taste, but at least we gave it a go. No matter though, as Luc was in his element and woofed the lot down as he walked around the market. It was a great experience and we purchased some olives stuffed with feta after sampling a few. Finally, we stopped for a glass of mint tea.

The sublime to the ridiculous, you decide?

We are not done yet,

It is said that you cannot go to Antwerpen without visiting Rubenshuis the house of Rubens. His home for the last 29 years of his life. Located in the Wapper Square, it is quite a Rampling place carefully restored after the second world war to its former glory. Rubens was greatly influenced by Italian renaissance architecture and this can be seen in the garden pavilion which is quite charming. Inside the house we were treated to a succession of masterpieces on the walls and in cabinets, it's a fascinating place and well worth a visit.

Next we looked at of the Kings palace, not in royal use now, it's a  confectioners. Rows of delicious looking chocolates lined the shelves. We also saw the kitchen area where they made the chocolates.  There was a large courtyard where high teas were served under parasols. Lovely to see people enjoying their tea, cucumber sarnies and fancy cakes.

Time for another break and catch our breath. We were taken to another cafe the name of which escapes us. It was a very large, popular cafe and It was difficult to find seats.  We did of course and ordered waffles, ice cream, fruit,  pancakes, oh and of course more beer. Luc told Kev he was now a Belgium on the account of his beer pouring abilities. 

On the way to the next must see, we went past a pub whose interior was full of church fittings and artefacts such as statues of Mary and pews. It was quite strange to see all these people drinking in what looked like a church and on the outside yet another hand this time huge and made out of concrete.

Under the river Scheldt that splits Antwerpen in two is a 2km foot path. It is a very old tunnel and is protected by a preservation order. To get to the tunnel you can use the lift along with all the bicycles or use the old wooden escalators, also along with the bicycles. We chose the latter and it was great experience. We went down two very, very long escalators before getting to the bottom and the tunnel. We looked at the tunnel disappear into the distance. It would be a long cold walk to the other side - we came back up again as Luc planned to drive us over later. 

Adjacent to the entrance tunnel is a raised promenade which took us along and above the old storage warehouses now car parks and boat sheds till we arrived back at the castle and the statue of the giant who cut of the hands etc. We crossed the road and headed towards the Cathedral to the parked car.

Back in the car we were taken through another old and protected tunnel under the river to the other side to see the City skyline from afar. It was really nice we spent some time admiring the view. 

Incredibly, by now it was nearing 19.30 and just around the corner was another restaurant known to Luc and Greta at the beach on the river. We were all quite tired by now and ready for a bit of a sit down, so more beer ordered and a light dinner. Croquettes, salad and beer - need we say more?

Nearly finished,

After diner Greta and Luc had one more essential visit for us, we were taken to a cocktail bar. This is an example of how thoughtful our hosts are, they were aware of our love of a G&T so as a last treat for the day they took us to one of the best cocktail bars in the city. These were no ordinary gins, they were citrus, ice cold and sooooo refreshing. The perfect end to a perfect day. 

Sunday 7 July 2013

After the truly amazing day we had yesterday we all decided a lay in was called for so the morning drifted along with jobs to do. Petra did some hand washing which was dry and put away by the time Greta and Luc arrived at 11.30 for our final day with them.

We were taken for a 20 km drive to the south of Antwerpen to a town called Lier and Luc's home town. The town is surrounded by a rivers (the Grote, Nete and Kleine) one going straight through its middle. It is a quiet town with cobbled stones and picturesque houses. But what it is most famous for is it's clock tower and the clock maker himself Lodewijk Zimmer.

First we walked around some of the town stopping at Luc's house and going into the church St Gummaruskerk a Barant gothic church whose stained glass windows were given by Emperor Maximilian 1 in 1516. We went past a few shops and Greta bought us some small cakes which are exclusively sold in Lier. They were a small pastry base filled with a sweet sticky ginger mixture (reminded Kev of Parkin)  a real treat. They came wrapped in a roll covered in paper and were quite heavy. 

The house of Luc

Lier is above all famous for its Zimmertoren a 14th century watch tower that now holds the clock and workshop of Zimmer. Whilst Luc and Greta sat in a bar we went of to take a look around the Zimmer Museum which holds several pieces by the him but most impressive of all was a huge clock with 93 dials in all. Each dial was different and told various things, for example the axis of the earth and the rotation of the planets. It was impossibly clever, one dial took 25,000 years to go round! We can't pretend to have understood it but it was an incredible time piece.

After our interesting visit to the museum we caught up with Luc and Greta at the bar and met Luc's cousin. We all sat chatting for a while in the sunshine, it was very nice indeed. At two o'clock the clock chimed and we carried on with the tour of the town.

Many towns around here have an area called Beginhof. It's basically a sanctuary for women dating back to the 13th century for widows of the crusade who resorted to a pious life of sisterhood. It would appear that they opted for a secluded existence devoted to charitable deeds, but not bound by strict religious vows. It was a very lovely place to walk around and even though it is no longer used for its purpose it is very quiet and still locked up at night. 

Moving on we saw the impressive town hall and Grote Markt a spacious cobbled square lined with old guild houses and we walked along the river stopping at a bar for a light lunch.

All done we went back to to Antwerpen to Luc and Greta's house to spend the evening having a splendid BBQ. They have a BBQ the size of a small car and  meat provided to match. It was a great evening of fun, food and company.

At midnight Luc and Greta took us back to the campsite and we said our sad goodbyes. It has to be said that we have had the weekend of our lives here in Antwerpen. Greta and Luc have been more than the perfect hosts. Kind and so generous with their time and money, they have spared nothing to ensure we have had a fantastic time. Thank you both so much for all you have done it is difficult to properly express our gratitude. Will we be back? You bet.

Amsterdam

Wednesday 3 July 2013

Rain stopped play and curtailed our venture into Amsterdam. And, when I say rain I mean it prolonged, set in and persistent. Nothing for it but to stay in and do van stuff. Brilliant, do all those jobs we don't normally get time for. 

Thursday 4 July 2013

So today started off with rather a rude awakening. At 05.30 two blokes and a girl with rather a bad cough (she really ought to see a doctor) woke everybody up shouting at each other coughing, calling out, coughing and basically swearing and coughing. On the up side it woke us up and we got straight on the Internet which is lightning fast at that time in the morning.

By the time we had a full breakfast, showers and made ready for the day (sarnies, drinks and shortbread) it was 09.00 and we were off on our bikes. Now, it was our intention to make our way to the Metro, fold the bikes up and travel the 10km or so on the tram. It didn't quite turn out like that as only a few yards into the journey, Kev said do you fancy cycling all the way? So we did!

The ride in was a joy, every inch of it (in fact of the whole day) was spent on cycle lanes and it was totally flat and easy to coast along. We went down canal sides and busy main roads, through suburbs and tree lined shopping centres it was a great snapshot of Amsterdam. Eventually we arrived in the absolute centre of Amsterdam at the memorial at Dam Square to the fallen in WW2 and the start of our planned cycle tour of the city.

Radiating out from the centre are a succession of canal rings lined on both sides with impressive tall town houses 3, 4 or even 5 stories high with huge windows and impressive doors and surrounds. Apparently, they had to build them as light as possible due to ground subsidence. This can be seen on some houses that lean forward or back in relation to their neighbours. One house was simply wrong and crooked beyond reason.

The tour we did showed us the different architecture and in particular the ornate collection of gables, cornices and wall plaques. The weather was lovely and sunny and we stopped at the many bridges that cross the canals to watch the low sleek tour boats motor by. Another boat was having a BBQ it smelt lovely. We saw houses belonging to ambassadors, painters, wealthy Merchants and alike. 

As we slowly made our way around the canals you can't help but notice the amount of people on cycles. We saw some of the most amazing contraptions one was made out of wood, teak I think, another had a steering wheel instead of handle bars and a third was a 3 wheeler with the front of a Noddy Car! Brilliant. Despite it being so busy in the city with cars, trams, buses and bikes at no time did we feel threatened or in any danger. 

We stopped off at a Starbucks for a well deserved cup of coffee in front of a market selling nothing but tulip bulbs, it was very colourful and very interesting to people watch for half an hour. After, we set off again on our travels and by lunch time we were sat on a park bench watching a bunch of lads playing football. It was great to watch them as they really enjoyed themselves. The score was 2-0 to the better team. 

After lunch we found ourselves on the river Amstal (I thought this was in Stourport?) sitting on a bench looking at a series of locks and and watching the launches go through along with larger vessels. About 200m down from the locks is the Magere Brug bridge which is made up of two counter weighted beams which raise the deck. We were fortunate to see this in action as as we sat there a huge barge came through the lock and waited for the road to lift. As it crept closer to the bridge it looked like it would never lift in time but, just in the nick of time the bridge lifted and the barge powered up its engines and it dragged itself through the opened gate.

After all the excitement of the day, it was time to make our way back. We crossed the bridge and to our surprise we had to wait for another one to close for the same barge. A swift look around a market, a purchase of a new bell for Petra's bike and a half of lager in a local watering hole saw us head off in the direction of the camp site.

Now, going to Amsterdam is one thing with all the sign posts telling us where to go, but coming back was quite another as we ricochet from one road to another looking for the right roads to take. We certainly didn't go back anything like the way we went but eventually we got there tired from a good 40km cycling. 

Great news, when we looked on the Internet emails, we had had an email from Greta and Luc, a couple we met in St.Tropez. They have invited us to visit them in Antwerpen. Yes, it's a back track but not that much of a detour. Our next stop following the weekend will be Maastricht. So a good weekend to look forward to with some nice friends.

Another brilliant day.....

Dam Square in the centre of Amsterdam

Coffee at Starbucks

The narrowest house in Amsterdam (it's the width of the double black doors)

Great bike made of wood

aaaah the Bromptons

Crazy..

Just some of the sloping houses

Hurray for Holland

Tuesday 2 July 2013

We really like it on this Aire the view of the Canal is great. We watch all manner of boats sail past, from recreational speed boats towing some poor unfortunate behind on a tyre, to huge barges the size of football pitches. The restaurant is busy with comings and goings and they serve good coffee. So all in all a good spot.

View from the window of Bertie

Unfortunately, the sign said we can only stay for 24 hours, not that there was any rush for us to leave as we were the only Motorhome on the site and I am sure we could have stretched the rules and stayed another night if chose. But, rules are rules and Amsterdam is calling. 

Before we go though we thought it would be rude not to visit the local town Ode-Beijerland, so it was out with the Bromptons and off we went. We have yet to find a town in Holland we don't like and Ode-Beijerland is no exception - very beautiful with a canal splitting the high street in two. We rode all along the cycle paths and explored the outskirts of the town. We can't get over how neat and tidy it is here its just lovely to ride around and admire. No rubbish, no trollies in the canal and no graffiti. 
The people are lovely too, they all speak English even the ones that say they don't? Nothing is too much trouble and we really feel welcome. We looked at the Estate Agents window and the house prices were not bad €150,000 for a flat €250,000 for a 3 bed house. No idea how much a canal side house would cost. 

Hehe

On the way back to Bertie we looked in at the small marina filled with mostly motor boats large converted barges the marina has a lock gate entrance. Again it was very picturesque. We like it here at Ode-Beijerland.

After lunch we set off again this time for a proper campsite on the outskirts of Amsterdam. As we drove out of the town we couldn't get over the amount of bicycles on the roads. Mind you the Dutch have really got it sussed with mile after mile of cycle paths everywhere in the towns and countryside alike. We went past an infant's school and the play ground was full of bikes. Apparently three quarters of the population of holland have bikes the rest, one assumes are either too old or too young!  We love it.

The drive to Amsterdam was great mostly motorway but at one stage the TomTom said keep left and it really meant keep right. This meant we took a detour through Rotterdam. As we have never been there before and we had no intention to, it was a nice mistake and we enjoyed the ride. 

In all the journey took only one and a half hours and we arrived at the campsite at about 15.30. Petra leapt into action with the on site washing machine whilst Kev bedded in Bertie, ramps, electric and gas. We are going to be here for two days so might as well make ourselves comfortable and use the facilities to the full.

Belgium and Holland

Wednesday 26 June 2013

It was with great excitement that the morning came as it is today that we collect Bertie from Premier Motorhomes following a huge list of things that needed to be sorted. They had had the van a week and we have really missed him. We were also champing at the bit to get going as it feels like half the summer has gone and we want to get back to our routine.
It was with a tinge of sadness that we said goodbye to Gaby and George. Gaby ran us to Premier at 8.30am and we said a tearful goodbye. Bertie on the other hand was standing in one of the parking bays and looking resplendent. 
We were delighted with all the work that had been done and so relieved that it had all come together.
It took all morning to ready Bertie for the journey, we had to fill up the gas bottles, put all our stuff away from a week in Burton and go to Tesco to stock up on life's essentials such as pork pie and cornflakes. By 13.30 we were ready to set off to Dover to catch the 21.20 ferry to Calais
The journey was completely uneventful and a pleasure to be back on the road. We arrived at the ferry terminal at 16.30.
As we had arrived so early, we thought we would make enquiries as whether we could move our tickets to an earlier ferry. We were shocked by the response we got as the lady behind the P&O counter said that we could indeed but it would cost us £87. Considering we had already paid £33 plus £37 to move it back a day a further £87 for a couple of hours was mad so we walked away.
We were told the earliest we could return to queue for the ferry was 19.45 so in the mean time we drove up the hill outside the port to the local B&Q car park. Did a bit more sorting out and waited. Whilst there we had two separate visits from interested people looking at Bertie. It was nice to chat to them and made us appreciate how appealing Bertie is.
At 19.15 we arrived back at the port and went to the check in. The very nice chap behind the glass screen took our passports and asked us if we would like to take the earlier ferry as it is loading now? Astounded, we of course said 'yes please' and he kindly gave us a £10 gift voucher to boot to spend in the on board shop.
So we were on the 20.15 ferry after all, the crossing couldn't have been better over in a flash and a purchase of a luggage wheeled trolley under the belt with our voucher. Only downer, was it was lovely and sunny when we left but tipping it down when we arrived.
As the clocks had to go forward an hour to comply with the EU etc we set off from Calais 23.00 straight onto the motorways and towards Belgium.
We arrived in the still torrential rain and pitch dark at our free Aire in Burgues. A rather bumpy car park come playing field. Very glad to be there and tired we went to bed. 

One of Gaby's best

Thursday 27 June 2013

We had a lazy start today as we were both tired and relieved to be back in Bertie. It turned out we had parked next to an English van in the night with two sisters and a man who were over for a couple of weeks, also on their way to Belgium. We had a nice chat with them and were joined by another couple who were on their way to watch speed water skiing on one of the canals in Holland. Apparently they get up to speeds of 90 mph. 

Today we wanted to go to Ypres. We both felt it would not be right to come to Belgium without paying homage to the fallen. So at 10.30 we were off.

The journey wasn't far and we stopped at a Commonwealth Cemetery en route called East Farm Cemetery. We were the only ones there so decided to have some lunch. By the time we had finished we had been blocked in by 3 coach loads of visitors.

It was not a huge Cemetery by any means but it was a sizeable plot and is famous as John McCrae's forward dressing station, he wrote the poem Flounders Fields there is a plaque to commemorate it. 
Also there is the grave stone 5750 Rifleman V.J.Strudwick who was killed in action on 4th January 1916, aged 15. It was surrounded in poppies and notes and toys. He was accepted by his Officers and fellow soldiers as a man and he died as one. Very moving really.

By the time we got back to the coach all the catches had moved on and we made our way to Ypres to try and find a stop over recommended to us by one of the coach drivers. It was only 2.5 km back down the road and we found it with no trouble at all. It was a great spot opposite the city wall and in front of the wide moat.

We spent the rest of the afternoon in the van relaxing and for dinner we tried out the new external BBQ point and it worked a treat. Connected in seconds and Tesco Finest burgers done to a turn.
7pm we walked up to the Menin Gate to have a look at the 50,000 names on the Gate to commemorate those soldiers who were killed during the great War but who were never found. At 8pm they have buglers play the last post and a lone Scot played the bagpipes.

We were surprised by the amount of people there to witness the last post there was a huge amount of young people which has to be a good thing. The salute was taken by a Canadian General, an American Officer and a representative of the Belgium forces. It was very moving indeed to witness this ceremony which is performed every day. The gate is extraordinary and it is challenging to see all the names all over the structure listed in Regiment, Rank and alphabetical order. Kevin had no idea Cunningham was such a popular name.

After the ceremony we walked into the town and looked at the Rally cars. Apparently there is a big Rally on this weekend and they have taken over the town centre. 

Friday 28 June 2013

It rained in the night again which didn't actually bother us much, but at about 01.30 we heard a bang on the outside of the van, it was just tipsy youths being noisy . I think we were so deep in our sleep that we couldn't be bothered to investigate. A sign really of how unbothered we have become of this sort of thing. In the morning when we opened the blinds to find one of the windscreen wipers was standing to attention. The bang was probably the other falling onto the windscreen. Anyway, so what!

After breakfast we walked in to Ypres again this time for a proper look around. Ypres was completely destroyed during the First World War. We saw some photos taken after the war in the cathedral which were amazing. The people were given funds after the war was over to rebuild the city and they chose to lovingly restore it to its former glory. They did a great job and other than the brickwork still looking fresh you really wouldn't know. The cathedral and public buildings are lovely.

As the city was full of racing cars which didn't really rock our boat we decided to take luncheon in Bertie and then move on.

Tyne Cot Cemetery is one of the largest Commonwealth cemeteries with 12000 graves and a wall containing 35000 names of missing soldiers. With the 55,000 names on the Menin Gate it really brings home how many lads were lost and never found. 

We arrived at the Cemetery car park to find more coach loads of Brits doing the tour. One had set up a full blown buffet on trestle tables. Quite a sight to see and quite inviting (we weren't invited). 
The complex is half surrounded by a high flint wall which you follow to the visitors centre. I suppose you would expect the centre to be a bit on the depressing side but for such a modern building (glass and concrete) it was a bit on the dowdy side. Very dark and slate grey. As one walks towards it, speakers call out the names of the dead one by one. Inside there are displays of personal effects of soldiers found at the cemetery during its construction and letters sent to the decreased next of kin. Moving stories of valour and sacrifice. 

The site was in fact the scene of one of the bloodiest battles of the war, There were two German pill boxes still stand on the site that dealt out their deadly deed and put a good number of the dead in their graves. One other small fact is out of the 12,000 graves at the site only 4 of them are German 3 of which are unknown. 

Walking away from the visitors centre we followed the wall round to the main gate at the bottom of the shallow sloping hill. What can I say 12,000 graves all lined up in perfect symmetry row after row after row. It takes your breath away and brings a lump to the throat as I write. 

The two Pill boxes have four plane trees one at each corner, natures way of keeping them segregated from the fallen, so symbolic, fitting and clever. We walked straight up the middle of the cemetery to the cross. Each cemetery has the same stone cross design with a sword placed over the top of the cross. The sword marks the end of battle, or no more fighting.
At the top of the cemetery is the massive curved wall containing all the names of the missing. Sobering reading I can assure you. Dotted about on the floor were notes written by children to the fallen which made you want to cry, Poppys stuck to names on the walls people walking about in quiet contemplation. It was overwhelming that after nearly 100 years so many people still cared. I think it should be a compulsory part of the school curriculum to visit these places. Surely only then would there be no more wars.

Once we had paid our respects we decided to make our way Bruges for Petra's birthday. The drive was easy and we found it no trouble. The site was a simple Aire on the side of a river but at €22.30 for 24 hours a bit of a treat. What you pay for though is the location. It was only 500m from the city centre. Unfortunately it was not the quietest of sites as the day we arrived it was music festival day. A bit like having one of those annoying youths sitting outside your house with his car stereo turned up full chat playing club music. Thankfully, it rained which dampened their spirits and by 22.00 they had packed it in and gone back to Mum.

Saturday 29 June 2013

Drizzle, all morning, but it couldn't dampen our spirits as its Petra's birthday today. So it was tea, cards and gifts in bed. We missed Josie but were cheered by the amount of lovely cards Petra received. 
After Breakfast we walked in to Bruges along cobbled streets with their lovely houses and buildings down a road that was selling nothing but chocolates and cakes. We stopped at the shop windows to admire the tasty displays. There is something about the way they display chocolates here that make them so inviting. Jewel like,  precious and to be treated with respect. You know just like mars bars.....Walking past the shops you could smell the cocoa beans and almost taste the praline. Yum.

Chocolate row led directly to the Markt square. Beautiful tall classical buildings surround the Markt square along with restaurants and cafes. There were horse drawn carriage trips and we even saw a horse drawn wedding in progress. Off the Markt are quite a few streets with shops, as we walked down some of them familiar names appeared like C&A, MEXX, Desigual and Ladbrooks?  As it was Saturday there were market stalls in the streets which added to the atmosphere.

After a while we stopped for coffee in a Cafe and used Internet to check emails/Facebook. It was great for Petra to pick up her messages for her birthday. iPads rule.

Birthday Girl....xxx Love you Petra xxx

After Coffee we went to Burg Square to see Heilig Bloed Basiliek church to have a look at a phial of blood containing a few real drops of blood of Christ collected by Joseph when he washed down his body. The solid gold Phial was placed on a table on a stand in front of a very important looking priest. One had to climb onto the erected stage place a donation in the sound amplified box mumble a few words and in exchange the priest gave the donor a bit of paper. We didn't partake, but the church was indeed spectacular and beautifully decorated with painted walls.

Don't forget that's the actual blood of Christ.....

Then walked all around the east side of the city along the canal network very beautiful and little visited by tourists. We almost had it to ourselves. We stood and watched the boat tours go along the canals and under the bridges. Very Venice like we thought.
By now we were getting hungry and found a traditional Brasserie. The sun had come out and we sat outside. We ordered the beef stew which came with chips and a very nice salad followed by custard flan all washed down with a glass of Blonde beer.

Birthday girl gets her treat.

Unfortunately we had to get back to Bertie and arrived back at camp at 3.30pm. We had to leave the site by 4.20 or pay another €22.30 camping fee. Before leaving we filled up with water and set up the Satnav for Holland.
Our first choice of Aire was Terneuzen just over the border into Zeeland. Unfortunately, it was full of wagons and cars as the town had a fair ground attraction on.  We then decided not to stay and instead head for Middelburg which is across a stretch of water called the Westershelde. To navigate it we went through a 6.5km tunnel. We both agreed it is the longest tunnel we have ever driven through. We arrived at our stop over for the night at about 5pm.
Tomorrow we stay put and go off to explore on bike.

Sunday 30 June 2013

Sunday is the day of rest and so shall it be for us. A good lie in and late breakfast first priority. It turned out to be a lovely morning with the sun shining, birds singing etc so after a late breakfast we got the Bromptons out and went for a cycle ride.
Middelburg is a gem of a place, beautiful architecture mixed in with canals. The town centres around the Matkt and splendid town hall area. A large open cobbled square surrounded by shops cafes and restaurants. 
As it was Sunday all the shops were shut except for a single bread shop. As we were a bit late there weren't any sticks left save a sad looking specimen which the lady kindly offered it to us at a reduced rate. Just as well really as it would have to have been broken anyway to get it into the cycle bag.
The streets of Middelburg circumvent the town square in expanding rings so in theory I you head off in one direction you should come back on yourself. We never quite managed that. We visited another lovely square in the middle of a Abbey. Filled with plane trees it felt like a quiet sanctuary for contemplation and with the dappled light through the trees it was lovely. 

We followed our noses around the towns narrow streets and along tree lined canals. The Bromptons really came into their own coasting along. No need for 30 gears here we only used 2 - slow and slower. We eventually stopped at the far end of to town sitting for a while on a bench looking at a canal lock. 
Back at Bertie we had our lunch (broken bread, egg and bacon) then with two large mugs of tea we took the chairs to the top of the embankment to the canal that runs along side the Aire. We had a very pleasant hour hoping to see some boats go by. None did!

Late afternoon we decided as there was water available for €1 we would fill up ready for tomorrow and give the van a wash with the remainder. The wet weather of late had taken its toll on poor Bertie and he was in need of a good scrub. By the time we had finished it was G&T and olives time.

Monday 1 July (already?)

Early get up today, ready to go by 09.00. Time to look at some of the coast line in Holland and where better to do it than in the islands leading to Rotterdam. We set off from Middelburg to a small seaside town called Westkapelle. The town is dominated by the sea wall which stands some 30-40m high. Apparently it was destroyed by the allies during the war to to flood the land behind and liberate it. It was rebuilt in 1987 to the hight of the delta. (See below)

Moving to the next island north we cross a huge dam called the delta works. It's a series of 62 sliding gates which close during heavy storms. This area has also suffered terribly with storms. In 1954 there was a big storm which breached the wall and killed 1835 people and destroyed all dykes which were made of sand and were washed away.

It was a very interesting drive which showed us how clever the Dutch are and how determined to keep nature at bay. We travelled over a succession of dams and bridges and wove our way to to outskirts of Rotterdam. From there we joined the A15 motorway driving through the industrial and docklands heart. We followed onto the A16 and came off heading for our Aire for the night at a smashing location in a small town called Ode-Beijerland.
The Aire was on a car park over looking a wide canal and adjacent to a 'Grand Cafe' / Restaurant which had WiFi Couldn't be nicer.